When you have 50 lbs of lead to install, we put most on the seat but mid way up instead of as high as you can mount it. A gentleman from Coyote I don’t know his name told me that the tie rods want to be in the rear-most holes on the spindles. It’s tough teaching an old dog almost 60 new tricks, but I feel like I’m in the window now and I’m having fun with this new challenge. I left the steering the way I had it. Now it’s as much driver error as anything else. Keep in mind you may need to adjust the camber a little bit to really get the weight percentages dialed in.
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Another thing to play with; tread widths front and rear.
I’m having a hard time convincing myself that’s the way it should work. Join Date Oct Location iowa Posts 6, OK, I need to correct my first post. That’s all that matters to me! There’s been a lot of advancements since then! I still need a little more chassis tweaking to suit my style, but at least I’m in the window now. Did you run the steeringas they suggested or as you originally had it?
When you have 50 lbs of lead to install, we put most on the seat but mid way up instead of as high as you can mount it. The last kart I drove competitively was a Emmick Elite, roughly 30 years ago.
Typically you won’t be turning that far. If you see the nose weight is already where it needs to be, then keep stacking the weight on the seat if you can.
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2018 Coyote XP Kart Chassis
I’m all for what works best! I understand ackerman and how it works, but this seems like an extreme example.
Bob’s 4 Cycle List of Sponsors. In a PM with Bergh, he gave me a very good explanation xpp the effects of ackerman going through a turn, so now I’m rethinking this and going to do some more experimenting with it.
From that point, start adding lead 2 5lb pucks at a time. Narrow the front for push, widen the front for loose. Here is what I would suggest for a process.
We have had weight on the floor pan under the steering shaft in front of gas tank as well as bolted to the floor pan just in front of the crossbar under the front of the seat.
I like to keep it simple, after all, the front is connected to the back. I realize I should never have to go to full lock while racing, but still it seems to me that the steering shouldn’t even be capable of doing this if it’s set up right. Probably because they are stiffer. If I put the tie rods in the front holes on the spindles it doesn’t do this when turning, and it seems to be xl to turn a tighter corner with the same amount of steering input.
Originally Posted by 01ron.
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Results 1 to 16 of A gentleman from Coyote I don’t know his name told me that the tie rods want to be in the rear-most holes on the spindles. I have found with the Coyote XP karts that I have setup that they work better with weight down lower.
Thanks Brett, I appreciate that. My biggest problem seems to be that I have to add about 50 pounds to make the weight class. Keep in mind you may need to adjust the camber a little bit to really get the weight percentages dialed in.
You can stop placing it up front. Same for the LR and the RR. After watching his karts run a few weeks ago, I’m taking his advice to heart. I had someone from Coyote tell me just this weekend that I should take the weight out of the bottom and put it on the seat.